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What our expert thought of Cantina del Giogantinu, Vermentino di Gallura Superiore




the tasting

The Tasting


The colour is a pale lemon, with definite hints of green.

 
There’s a light, saline nose of preserved lemons and wet stones, with a hint of pear. It’s very mineral, and oddly hints at concentration despite its lightness.
 
The unoaked palate is very dry, with firm, medium+ acidity and full body. It’s surprisingly big in the mouth after the delicate nose, with pithy grapefruit and green apple flavours.
 
These lead into a long, waxy finish, with perhaps just a hint of bitterness.


Assessment


This has much in common with a Muscadet, especially on the nose. The saline character, in particular, suggests that this wine has been aged on its lees.

 
However, no Muscadet is as weighty and full-bodied as this. Like a young Meursault, it pulls off the trick of being back-loaded: it starts off with a reticent nose and little overt fruit flavour but builds in the mouth into a long satisfying finish.
 
The waxy, slightly bitter character to that finish indicates that, unusually for a white, there is some tannin here as a result of extended skin contact prior to fermentation. Vermentino is a very pale grape so this is entirely likely despite the wine’s pale colour.



Tasting notes

Appearance
Medium- lemon, with green hints
Nose

Intensity medium-, yet concentrated

Aromas saline & citrus (preserved lemons), mineral (wet stones), subtle yellow fruit (pear, peach)

Development youthful
Palate

Sweetness dry

Acidity medium

Body full

Intensity medium+

Flavours pithy citrus (grapefruit), stone fruit (white peach), green pear
Finish

Length long

Flavours as palate, waxy, some spicy warmth, hint of bitterness
Other notes
Unoaked.


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