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What our expert thought of Murgo, Etna Rosso




the tasting

The Tasting


Etna reds are usually quite pale, and this one, with its limited skin contact, is no exception.  It’s a light and lustrous, shimmering ruby – almost jewel-like.
 
The nose is only medium intensity, but is complex and fine, with floral scents of dried roses over a mix of red fruits – cherry, cranberry and redcurrant – and some orange-peel citrus.  There is also a fascinating papery aroma which seems to be unique to Etna Rosso: on last year’s wine I described it as “like riffling the pages of a quality hardback”.
 
It’s bone-dry and quite light-bodied despite the 13% alcohol, aided by the very fresh mouthwatering acidity.  Elegant flavours of citrus, rose hips and red fruits (cranberry and sour cherry) are joined on the mid-palate by a savoury, gamey note very reminiscent of fine red Burgundy.
 
Those savoury red fruits continue into the surprisingly long, spicy finish, where fine-grained medium tannins can be felt.


Assessment


Burgundy fans should love this!  So should lovers of Barbaresco, Barolo’s lighter-weight, less oaky cousin.  Elegant, polished and precise, it’s the polar opposite of the heavyweight, dark-fruited, New-World-y reds more commonly associated with Sicily.
 
This is fine wine, complementing food rather than clashing with it, and leaving the drinker’s palate refreshed and ready for more.  Although it is delicious now if given a little air, I expect the tannins to soften and the scents and flavours to deepen over the coming year or so.



Tasting notes

Appearance
clear pale ruby
Nose

Intensity medium

Aromas red fruit (cherry, cranberry, redcurrant), floral (dried rose), mineral (paper), citrus (orange peel)

Development youthful
Palate

Sweetness very dry

Acidity high

Body medium-, despite 13% ABV

Tannins medium, fine-grained

Intensity medium

Flavours citrus, rose hips, red fruits (cranberry, sour cherry), savoury (gamey, Burgundian)
Finish

Length medium+

Flavours as palate, mouthwatering, spicy, tannins
Other notes
No detectable oak. Elegance, purity and precision. Like village Burgundy crossed with Barbaresco. Needs air, will improve.


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