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What our expert thought of Cherubino, Laissez Faire, Riesling




the tasting

The Tasting


In the glass this boasts a classic dry Riesling colour: very pale lemon with a definite green tinge.
 
The nose… oh wow… the nose is heavenly.  Piercingly fresh, it soars up out of the glass: fresh dill, orange blossom, lemon zest and lime zest backed by the steeliness characteristic of great Riesling.  Little hints of ginger and lemongrass add complexity.
 
Don’t say we didn’t warn you!  On the palate this is searingly, breathtakingly sharp.  It’s bone dry too, with absolutely no sweetness to offset acidity that’s not just mouthwatering: it’s eye-watering, especially on the first mouthful.  Once over the initial shock (the second sip is much easier), intense but super-clean flavours of lime, white grapefruit and green Granny Smith apple come through.
 
Initially light-bodied, this puts on weight and mineral intensity through the palate, building into a mouthwateringly limey and salty finish that lasts for minutes.  As it fades I notice that the corners of my mouth ache a little.


Assessment


This wine is shockingly intense – an assault on the senses.  It kicks sand in the faces of other wines, even other Rieslings: it makes the Weegmüller one we drank a few months ago look like a wuss.  Some of you, I suspect, are going to hate it.
 
Count me with the masochists, though, because I love it: I’ve already bought a case for myself.  That perfect Riesling nose, and that incredibly long salty finish… there’s so much to enjoy either side of the scary middle bit when it actually hits your tastebuds.  Food fixes that part, anyway.



Tasting notes

Appearance
clear very pale lemon-green
Nose

Intensity pronounced

Aromas obviously Riesling, herbs (dill), floral (orange blossom), citrus zest (lemon, lime), mineral (steely), hints of asian spice (ginger, lemongrass)

Development youthful
Palate

Sweetness bone dry

Acidity very high

Body light+, backloaded

Intensity medium++, backloaded

Flavours citrus (lime, white grapefruit juice), green fruit (Granny Smith apple), mineral (stony texture)
Finish

Length long (no rush for next sip), mouthwatering (eye-watering!)

Flavours mineral (v. saline), citrus (lime)
Other notes
Piercingly fresh Riesling nose, shocking acidity (mouth corners ache after finish), ultra clean flavours. Unoaked. Initial reduction (bruised petals) soon blows off.


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