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Domaine Jean Goulley & Fils, Chablis

Domaine Jean Goulley & Fils, Chablis

So you don’t like Chardonnay? Try Chablis!

My family don’t like Chardonnay.  They think of it as big fat yellow wine, oaky and buttery and alcoholic, tasting of pineapple chunks and banana.  It was big in the 80s and 90s, but “only old people drink it now”.
But they like it when I serve them a Chablis.  Crisp and pure, with subtlety and finesse, it complements food and doesn’t get tiring to drink.  They really enjoy the wine… provided I don’t tell them what it’s made from!
For Chablis is, of course, a Chardonnay.  Indeed, it’s the definitive example of what the grape should taste of when grown in a cool climate and not flavoured by oak.  There are caveats: vintages vary a lot this far north, vineyard location is vital, and some producers are trading on the famous name.
Here’s a classy example from the family who pioneered organic viticulture in the region.  From the excellent 2015 vintage, this combines flinty purity with elegant citrus and apple fruit.  Classic Chablis, in fact.  Let it change your preconceptions…

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Available at £16.31 per bottle


Not too cold!  Poised, pure and restrained, this will still be refreshing even at room temperature but if you chill it down you won't taste or smell anything.  12°C is about right: give the pouch 4 or 5 minutes out of the fridge (and envelope) before pouring.
Although this wine smelt lovely as soon as I opened the bottle, it definitely improved with air.  The nose became deeper and fruitier, with more citrus and apple to balance the flowers.Though your pouches will be fine, you’ll enjoy a bottle more if you decant it.  Aim for an hour in advance.
Resolutely unsweet, this wine is made for food.  White fish and shellfish are classic matches, but it could also handle white meats ‐ chicken in tarragon sauce, say ‐ or even slices of cold ham.  At the very least, nibble on some salted almonds.

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Domaine Jean Goulley et Fils
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