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Details for Sula, Zinfandel


CountryIndia
Region
AppellationNashik
Grape
Primitivo / Zinfandel
(click to find out more)
Year2017
Producer
Sula Vineyards
(click to find out more)
ABV13%


Maharashtra

More than 80% of Indian wine comes from this western state, with most of the remainder hailing from neighbouring Karnataka to the south.  This has as much to do with politics as geography.  As far as trade is concerned, India’s states are effectively separate countries, with labyrinthine regulations and high tariffs on many kinds of cross-border goods.
 
This applies in spades to alcohol, whose prohibition was a goal enshrined in India’s constitution thanks to the efforts of teetotal Mahatma Gandhi.  Only Gandhi’s home state of Gujarat completely bans booze, but all impose complex restrictions and punitive taxation, especially on imports from outside the state.  It’s easier and cheaper for Indian wineries to export to Britain than to the state next door.
 
Maharashtra has the most wine-friendly (or perhaps least unfriendly) legislation, and is usefully home to the vast market of Mumbai, where much of India’s wine gets consumed.  There are two main wine regions, both on the Deccan Plateau more than 100 km inland from Mumbai, and both were successfully growing table grapes decades before making any wine.
 
The older one is around Pune, south-east of Mumbai, where pioneering Chateau Indage stated producing a remarkably decent sparkling wine in the Eighties.  Called Omar Khayyam, it was made from an unlikely blend of Chardonnay, Ugni Blanc and Thompson Seedless (the latter being what was already planted for eating).  In the Nineties and Noughties it seemed that most curry houses in Britain stocked it, and it was a reliably good buy.  Sadly the company went on an international expansion spree just as global financial markets were about to crash, causing them to go bust in 2010.
 
The more northerly Nashik valley, on the border with dry Gujarat, is now the centre of wine production with 29 wineries in operation.  Another pioneering sparkling wine producer, Pimpane Co-operative, produced the first wine here in 1987 in collaboration with champagne house A. Charbaut et Fils.  However, they ceased production in 2003.
 
The current crop of Nashik wineries was spearheaded by Rajeev Samant who, having acquired a taste for wine while studying and working in California, began to plant wine varieties on his family’s land in 1996, founding Sula Vineyards.  Their first wine was released in 2000, and the state’s adoption of more wine-friendly legislation the following year encouraged other startups to follow suit.
 
Maharashtra’s vineyards lie at altitudes between 400 and 700 metres, giving them warm days (around 28°C) and cool nights (around 10°C), at least during the dry season from late October to April.  However, this is very much the tropics, and the summer sees 40°C days and monsoon rains.  Accordingly the vines are pruned hard at the beginning of summer to drive them into dormancy, and then again more carefully at its end to encourage budbreak and flowering.  The grapes develop through the winter, which is so dry that irrigation is essential, and are harvested in the spring.


Sula Vineyards

Sula Vineyards is the brainchild of Rajeev Samant, who developed a taste for wine in California while studying at Stanford and then working at Oracle in Silicon Valley.  He returned to his native India in the early Nineties, without any intention of getting involved in the wine business.  But a 1994 visit to his family’s lands in the Nashik Valley, where table grapes are a long-established crop, planted the idea.  He returned to California and worked for three months at a small winery belonging to his friend Kerry Damsky, who is now Sula’s Master Winemaker.
 
Rajeev planted his first vineyards in the Nashik in 1996, with Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, both of which were new to India.  Sula Vineyards (named after his mother, Sulabha) was formally founded in 1999 in time for the first harvest.  Many others followed his lead over the next decade, so that the Nashik is now known as India’s Napa Valley, producing 80% of Indian wine, of which 70% is made by Sula.  Although India’s wine production is about the same as England’s, that still makes Sula a very big operation.  More than 3000 acres of vineyards supply grapes, though most do so under contract and aren’t owned by the winery.
 
As the largest producer they offer a full range.  Their whites are particularly highly regarded, mostly based on Chenin Blanc and Sauvignon Blanc, though there is also a Viognier and a Riesling (India’s first).  Reds come from Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Zinfandel.

about this wine About this wine


Sula’s founder, Rajeev Samant, was the first person to plant Zinfandel in India in 1998, the year before Sula Vineyards was formally founded.  He had developed a particular fondness for the variety while studying and working in California, and also felt that it might work better in the Indian climate than the usual French grapes.
 
First released in 2003, this is still Sula’s (and probably India’s) only red Zinfandel (they also make a rosé).  The grapes from those first Zin vines in Sula’s Dindori vineyard find there way into here, though now they are supplemented by newer plantings.  The vineyards lie on well-drained red clay and gravel soils with a high iron content, and employ a high trellising system to maximise airflow.  At around 600 metres altitude, the cool nights preserve acidity and aromas in the ripening grapes.
 
The hand-picked bunches were fermented in temperature-controlled stainless steel and then aged in large, old oak barrels for a minimum of three months, to soften the wine without adding any overt oak flavour.


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